After three and a half weeks in India, specifically in Tamil Nadu, I am back in Chennai for a little over 24 hours – just enough to buy a bus ticket, eat a few meals, and write my first (and long overdue) blog post. I can continue to put it off as I pursue a non-existent perfection, or I can just write, tell an imperfect version of my story so far, and move on. So here goes…
I landed on the seventh of March in Chennai, and spent one night at the same guest house I am staying at now: Broad Lands. I’ve stayed here almost every time I’ve come to Chennai, though I can tell you it isn’t the comfort of the beds or the cleanliness of the rooms that keeps me coming back. Rather, the building that holds this guesthouse is old, paint is chipping off the walls, the doors are all rickety, but still, this place holds an appeal that is sometimes difficult to find in a modern hotel or guesthouse. The people who run the guesthouse are nice and friendly beneath their stern Tamil mannerisms, and the atmosphere is quiet, despite being tucked away off a busy street in the fourth largest city in India.
I’ve met some interesting people here in the past, including two Englishmen who were staying here in a sort of political limbo, arrested in international waters over unregulated arms transport (yikes) from South Africa to somewhere in the Middle East. The exchange of stories I’ve enjoyed here have always provided interesting diversion from the chaos that exists outside on the streets.
This time, after my first night in Chennai, I set out for Tiruvannamalai, a holy city famous for Mount Arunachala and its stories of the many who became enlightened in it’s presence. In pursuit of a “full circle” moment, I sat in a ten day Vipassana course, at the same center where I sat my first course in November of 2015. I was lucky enough at that point to also take part in the largest Pradakshina of the year, where a giant fire of ghee was lit at the top of the mountain while thousands of pilgrims from all over walked around the mountain under the light of the full moon.
Vipassana is probably the most difficult thing I have ever done, though also the most rewarding. Ten days spent in silence, while observing sensations, brings one to a better understanding of one’s self and one’s place in the world. Furthermore, I thought it would be a great way to start off this journey.
I’ve been to India many times over the past ten years, and every time it’s a different adventure. This time, as I make my transition from my career as an English Teacher to that of a Designer, I plan on gathering visual inspiration in addition to my experiences.
So, after ten days at the retreat and a few more in the town of Tiruvannamalai, amid the sadhus and spiritually minded tourists, I left for Pondicherry, a seaside French colony along the coast of Tamil Nadu. I had been inspired by the hand painted signage I had seen on my journey so far, namely the sign at the Ashram of Ramana Maharshi, telling the story of his “Death Experience”. Thus far I’ve been taking photos for inspiration, and I am interested in developing a typeface or two based on the hand painted lettering of India. More on that to come.
After Pondicherry I went to Mahabalipuram, UNESCO world heritage site, and home to 1300 year old temples built by the Pallava Dynasty. Many of these temples were built out of a single piece of stone, and they depict stories of Hindu deities. I was interested to learn that after the birth and expansion of Buddhism and Jainism 2500 years ago, there was a resurgence of belief in Hinduism, and the Pallavas played a big part in it, along with developing what is now known as the style of temple seen all over Tamil Nadu, with its gopurams, or towers adorned with statues of deities. Interestingly, Mahabalipuram was also the largest international port city in the world at that time!
It was really cool to spend a few days wandering amid these ancient ruins, and to spend some days by the beach before I inevitably head north toward the Himalayas. It’s also hot, and getting hotter in South India as we speak, and the mountains are calling me…
So now I’m in my room at Broad Lands, making these notes and preparing for my night bus to Hampi; another UNESCO world heritage site with ancient stone temples. I’m excited to spend a few days there exploring, and maybe a few more relaxing before I head further north to Agra and the Taj Mahal, followed by a possible stay over in Vrindavan before heading into the mountains. I’m looking forward to see what this adventure brings in terms of new experiences and new perspectives on life.
Until next time!
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